In the heart of Nepal, a festival exists where grief and joy walk hand in hand, and the streets become a canvas of color, satire, and celebration. Gaijatra in Nepal, literally translating to “Cow Festival” and also known locally as “Sa Paru’’ is a cultural phenomenon that defies the norms of mourning by transforming it into a collective celebration of humor, remembrance, and life.
In a world where grief often stays private, Nepal celebrates it with color and comedy. During Gaijatra, the ancient cities of Kathmandu Valley burst into processions, masked dances, and spontaneous skits that fill the air with laughter. But beneath the surface lies a festival with deep meaning: helping souls find peace and families find healing.
Gaijatra’s history traces back to the 17th century during the reign of King Pratap Malla. Legend has it that the queen, mourning the death of their son, fell into deep despair. No one could console her. To ease her pain, the king ordered his people to parade through the city, dressed in humorous costumes, leading cows-or boys dressed as cows-in a public procession.
The sight of people, in all their ridiculousness and bravery, made the grieving queen smile for the first time since her loss. From that moment, Gaijatra became a tradition-a way for communities to support those who had lost loved ones and to remind them that life must go on.
Also known as Saparu in the Newar language, Gaijatra is deeply rooted in Hindu and Newar traditions. The cow holds sacred symbolism in Nepalese culture, believed to guide the departed souls safely into the afterlife.
Gaijatra falls in the month of Bhadra in the Nepali calendar, typically in August or September. It takes place on the first day of the waning moon, right after Janai Purnima. Although officially a one-day event, Gaijatra in Nepal is celebrated differently across various regions, with preparations, rituals, and cultural programs often extending for several days before and after the main festival day.
Kathmandu’s Gaijatra is known for its vibrant satire and urban energy. The streets are filled with masked dances, humorous skits, and processions that reflect both tradition and modern influences. It’s the best place to witness the festival’s satirical side, where political and social issues are fearlessly mocked.
Bhaktapur’s Gai Jatra stands out as an eight-day celebration that blends humor, tradition, and tribute to the departed in a way unlike Kathmandu or Lalitpur. Central to the festival are the Chariots (Taha-Macha)—bamboo structures wrapped in cloth, displaying photos and belongings of deceased loved ones, which are carried through the streets by their families.
Leading the Lakolachhen procession is the grand Bhailya Dya chariot filled with straw, followed by the deity Ajima and groups of traditional musicians. The streets come alive with the Ghintang Ghisi dance, where participants form long lines and joyfully clash sticks to rhythmic beats.
People dress in amusing costumes, with men wearing women’s traditional outfits, children portraying gods, and colorful masks adding a playful spirit. The entire community, along with villagers from surrounding areas, joins in cultural performances, dances, and musical displays, turning the city into a lively hub of heritage. Blending grief with celebration, Bhaktapur’s Gai Jatra transforms mourning into a heartfelt display of life, unity, and culture.
In Lalitpur, Gai Jatra is observed with less enthusiasm compared to another major local festival, Matayaa. Celebrated a day after Gai Jatra, Matayaa—also known as the Festival of Lights—is a unique Buddhist celebration deeply rooted in Patan’s culture.
During this vibrant event, thousands of devotees participate in processions that pass through numerous Buddhist temples and stupas throughout the city. The festival reflects strong spiritual commitment and community participation, making it far more engaging and anticipated than Gai Jatra for the people of Lalitpur.
In Kirtipur, Gai Jatra is a special festival where people believe the gates of heaven open for the souls of the dead. Instead of dressing as cows, people dress as gods and goddesses. The festival is a time to remember loved ones and also to bring families and the community closer together.
It occurs after the farming season ends, accompanied by feasts to celebrate. Men dress as women and visit neighbors to invite them to eat, promoting friendship and unity. The festival is filled with lively dances and performances, making it one of the most vibrant celebrations in the Kathmandu Valley.
The most iconic ritual involves families leading cows through the streets. Any family who lost a member in the past year participates, believing the cow will help the deceased navigate the journey to the afterlife.
For families unable to afford or find a cow, young boys are dressed as cows, complete with horns and painted faces, carrying on the symbolic gesture. The streets come alive with music, drums, bells, colorful costumes, and the scent of incense.
Gaijatra is also known as the festival of laughter. It’s a rare day when Nepalese people can openly mock politics, religion, and societal norms without fear of reprisal. Street performers act out skits, tell jokes, and perform dances that lampoon current events.
In modern times, TV channels air Gaijatra comedy programs filled with political satire, and special satirical publications hit the stands. This tradition of unrestrained expression reflects the festival’s ability to transform sorrow into joy and critique into laughter.
Public squares, especially in Bhaktapur, host traditional dances, Newar music performances, and masked dances. Participants wear elaborate costumes, some humorous and others deeply symbolic, all of which add to the festival’s theatrical atmosphere.
At its core, Gaijatra is about communal healing. The cow symbolizes compassion and a spiritual guide for souls transitioning to the afterlife. But the humor-sometimes slapstick, sometimes sharply witty-serves as emotional therapy.
By laughing together, communities affirm that grief is not a solitary burden; it is a shared experience. It’s a shared human experience. Gaijatra reminds us that even in loss, life’s rhythm continues.
While the essence of Gaijatra remains unchanged, modern influences have reshaped its expression. Urban areas have introduced comedy shows on television, and political satire now dominates many performances.
Increased tourist participation has also added a new dynamic to the festival. Visitors are drawn to its bold mix of sacred rituals and irreverent humor. Yet the festival still stays rooted in its purpose: to honor the departed and comfort the living.
For travelers, Gaijatra is a sensory feast. The best places to witness it are Kathmandu Durbar Square and Bhaktapur’s Taumadhi Square, where the processions are particularly vibrant.
Expect crowded streets, impromptu street performances, and local delicacies being sold at every corner. If you’re lucky, you might even witness families hiring comedians to cheer others.
Gaijatra stands as a testament to Nepal’s cultural richness and emotional resilience. It teaches that grief doesn’t have to be silent, that laughter can coexist with sorrow, and that community can ease even the deepest pain.
For visitors, it’s an unforgettable experience-one where ancient traditions, bold humor, and heartfelt remembrance collide in the vibrant streets of Kathmandu Valley.
If you’re visiting Nepal in August, don’t miss Gaijatra in Kathmandu. It’s a once-in-a-lifetime cultural experience filled with ancient rituals, bold performances, and local heritage.
For a comfortable and authentic stay during the festival, book your accommodation at Maya Manor Boutique Hotel in Kathmandu. Conveniently located, this boutique hotel offers easy access to the Gaijatra celebrations while providing warm hospitality and modern comforts.
Plan your August trip to Kathmandu, Nepal, and immerse yourself in the unforgettable colors, emotions, and traditions of Gaijatra.
Because families lead cows (or children dressed as cows) in a procession, believing the animal helps guide departed souls to heaven.
No, it’s mostly celebrated in the Kathmandu Valley, specifically in Kathmandu, Bhaktapur, and Lalitpur. Each city’s version has its unique traditions.
Tourists are welcome as spectators and photographers, but it’s essential to be respectful of grieving families and religious rituals.
The festival historically provided people with a rare opportunity to speak freely about political and social issues, which were traditionally forbidden on other days.
It falls in August or September, on the first day of the waning moon in Bhadra, right after Janai Purnima.